Julian Fellowes, the writer and creator of Downton Abbey, has described costume designer Susannah Buxton as a “sculptress-in-cloth.” During the show’s first season, set from 1912 until 1914, Buxton dreamed up dazzling Edwardian frocks — replete with corsets and elbow-length gloves — for the aristocratic Crawley family, and simpler dresses and aprons for their many maids. During the second season, which spans the horrors of World War I and ends in 1918, she demonstrated how the upper classes made austerity look elegant. Buxton recently spoke with TIME about the hit drama, why it’s easier to create flattering costumes for a scullery maid than for a countess, and the perils of working with vintage clothing.
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